Varanasi is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It is a place where time seems to stand still. Walking through its narrow alleys, past centuries-old temples, sacred ghats and chaotic markets, it feels like stepping back into the Middle Ages. The city’s rhythms are dictated by ancient rituals, the chants of priests and the steady flow of pilgrims who come to bathe in the sacred Ganges. In this article, I’ll take you on a journey through the medieval soul of Varanasi, exploring its historic temples, age-old traditions and architectural wonders that have remained unchanged for centuries.
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History of Varanasi: India’s oldest city
Varanasi is also known as Kashi or Banaras. The city is one of the oldest cities in the world and the spiritual capital of India. With a history dating back over 3,000 years, Varanasi has been a centre of Hindu culture, learning and devotion for centuries.
Origins and early history
According to Hindu mythology Lord Shiva founded Varanasi and is a popular holy city in India. Historical records suggest that it was a flourishing trade and religious centre as early as the 2nd millennium BCE. The city grew along the banks of the Ganges River, attracting scholars, traders and pilgrims from across India.
Medieval Varanasi: a centre of knowledge and religion
During the medieval period, Varanasi became a popular centre for Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism. The famous Kashi Vishwanath Temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The temple was built and rebuilt multiple times after being destroyed by invading forces. The city was also home to renowned scholars, including the 8th-century philosopher Adi Shankaracharya. He restored Hindu traditions in the region.
Mughal and colonial influence
During the Mughal era, Emperor Akbar supported the reconstruction of temples and promoted religious tolerance. But under Aurangzeb rule, many temples were destroyed. Instead mosques were built in their place. During British colonial rule, Varanasi maintained its religious importance and became a centre for the Indian independence movement in the 19th and 20th centuries.
Varanasi today: A living heritage city
Varanasi is a top spiritual tourism destination in India today. The city attracts millions of visitors who come for the Ganga Aarti, boat rides on the Ganges. The city’s famous ghats are Dashashwamedh Ghat and Manikarnika Ghat. Varanasi is famous for the ancient temples, narrow alleys and traditional silk weaving industry. They have preserved its medieval charm. Varanasi is a timeless place where the past and present coexist.
Key historical events in Varanasi’s history
Varanasi’s history goes back thousands of years and is shaped by religious, cultural and political changes. Below are some of the most important historical events that define the city’s past.
Mythological origins: The City of Shiva
According to Hindu mythology, Lord Shiva founded Varanasi. It is the holiest of the seven sacred cities in Hinduism. The Rigveda (c. 1500 BCE) mentions Kashi (another name for Varanasi), highlighting its significance in early Hindu civilization.
The Buddha’s first sermon at Sarnath
Just a few kilometres from Varanasi, Sarnath is where Gautama Buddha delivered his first sermon, setting the foundation for Buddhism. This happened in the 5th century BCE. The great emperor Ashoka (3rd century BCE) later built stupas and monasteries in Sarnath, making it a centre of Buddhist learning.
Gupta Era: The Golden Age of Hindu learning
Under the Gupta Empire Varanasi flourished as a place for Sanskrit learning, philosophy and temple construction in the 4th until the 6th century. Scholars such as Patanjali (the father of yoga) and Panini (a pioneer of Sanskrit grammar) were associated with the intellectual growth of the region.
Invasions and temple destruction
Mahmud of Ghazni (1033 CE) and Muhammad Ghori (12th century CE) led invasions that resulted in the destruction of Hindu temples, including early versions of the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. In the 16th century, Emperor Akbar encouraged religious tolerance and helped rebuild temples. But under Aurangzeb (1669 CE), the Kashi Vishwanath Temple was demolished again and replaced with the Gyanvapi Mosque.
British Colonial Rule and the Indian Independence Movement
By the 18th century, Varanasi became a princely state under the British but retained its religious autonomy. In the 19th century, Varanasi played a crucial role in the Indian independence movement, with leaders like Madan Mohan Malaviya (founder of Banaras Hindu University) advocating for education and self-rule.
Post-Independence: revival of heritage and tourism
After India’s independence in 1947, Varanasi continued to be a major religious and cultural place. The government has undertaken initiatives to restore ancient temples, preserve the ghats and promote Varanasi as a spiritual and historical tourism destination. In 2014, Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi was elected as a Member of Parliament from Varanasi. This attracted renewed focus to the city’s development.
Despite centuries of change, Varanasi remains a living museum of Indian history, religion and culture. The city’s ancient temples, rituals at the ghats and traditional silk weaving industry continue to thrive. It’s a must-visit destination for history lovers and spirituality.
Ghats of Varanasi
The ghats of Varanasi are among the most iconic and sacred places in India. They are situated along the banks of the Ganges River. The historic riverfront steps are a places for spiritual rituals, meditation and the ancient practice of cremation. With over 80 ghats in Varanasi, each has its own religious, cultural and historical narrative. The ghats are essential to understanding the city’s spiritual essence.
Dashashwamedh Ghat
One of the most famous ghats is Dashashwamedh Ghat. It is known for its Ganga Aarti ceremony and takes place every evening. Devotees and visitors gather to witness the spectacular ritual. Priests perform synchronized fire offerings, accompanied by chanting and the sound of bells. This ghat is considered one of the holiest in Varanasi. The legends say that Lord Brahma performed a grand horse sacrifice (Dashashwamedh Yajna) here. Nearby is the Assi Ghat. It is a quieter Ghat but popular among spiritual devotees, yoga practitioners and those looking for a more peaceful experience along the river.
The Burning Ghats
The burning ghats of Varanasi are among the most powerful and unique aspects of the city. Manikarnika Ghat is the main cremation site and operates 24/7. Funeral fires are burning continuously. Hindus believe that dying in Varanasi and being cremated at this sacred spot ensures moksha, a liberation from the cycle of rebirth. The atmosphere here is intense, as families bring their deceased loved ones from all over India to perform the final rites. According to Hindu mythology, Lord Shiva himself whispered the sacred mantra of salvation into the ears of the dead at Manikarnika Ghat. This mantra allows them eternal peace.
Another important cremation site is Harishchandra Ghat. It has similar spiritual importance but is less crowded than Manikarnika. This Ghat is named after the legendary King Harishchandra. He is believed to have once worked here as a cremator to prove his honesty and dedication to truth. This ghat has a profound connection to Hindu beliefs about karma and righteousness.
Visiting the Burning Ghats
The burning ghats give visitors a raw and unfiltered look at the Hindu philosophy of life and death. The cremation rituals have remained unchanged for centuries. Bodies are wrapped in cloth and are first dipped in the sacred Ganges before being placed on a wooden funeral fire. The fire is often lit from an eternal flame that has been burning for thousands of years. The entire process is very spiritual and visitors are expected to observe with respect. Photography is often discouraged at these sites.
The spiritual journey of other Ghats
While the burning ghats highlight the spiritual journey of the soul, other ghats in Varanasi reflect the city’s traditions, culture and daily life. Scindia Ghat is known for its partially submerged Shiva temple. The temple slowly sank into the river centuries ago. This ghat is less frequented by tourists and an excellent place for quiet reflection. Panchganga Ghat is another historical site and is known for the five sacred rivers. It is often visited by pilgrims looking for purification.
Best time to go on a boat ride
A boat ride along the Ganges River at sunrise provides a breathtaking view of the ghats. The city wakes up with morning prayers, meditation and the sight of devotees taking holy dips in the river. The best time to experience the ghats of Varanasi is either at dawn, when the river is bathed in golden light, or in the evening during the Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat.
Varanasi’s ghats represent a continuous connection between the past and present. The ancient rituals and traditions still shape the daily lives of locals. You can witness the burning ghats of Varanasi, experience the spiritual energy of the Ganga Aarti or explore the hidden alleys leading to these historic riverbanks. The ghats are an essential part of Varanasi’s timeless charm.
The Old City
The Old City of Varanasi is a labyrinth of narrow alleys, ancient temples and markets. It is often referred to as the heart of Varanasi. This historic quarter has stayed largely unchanged for centuries. This neighbourhood preserved the city’s medieval character. Walking through the Old City feels like stepping back in time. The streets are surrounded with centuries-old buildings, carved doorways and local bazaars selling everything from Banarasi silk sarees to sacred offerings for temple rituals.
Kashi Vishwanath Temple
At the core of the Old City is the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. It is one of the holiest shrines in Hinduism and dedicated to Lord Shiva. This temple is also known as the Golden Temple of Varanasi. The temple attracts thousands of devotees daily. They come here for prayers and blessings. The Kashi Vishwanath Temple has been destroyed and rebuilt several times throughout history. Its current structure is dating back to the 18th century. The nearby Gyanvapi Mosque is built during the Mughal era. It is a symbol of Varanasi’s layered history, showing the city’s mix of Hindu and Islamic architectural influences.
Galis
The narrow alleys of the Old City are known as galis. It is an experience itself to walk around in these galis. These paths are filled with ancient shrines, street food stalls and hidden ashrams. When you walk around it creates a sensory overload of sights, sounds and smells. You can try the best street food in Varanasi in this area, include kachoris, chaats and the famous Banarasi paan. These delicious dishes can be found around the tiny lanes. The chaos of cycle rickshaws, pilgrims and traders adds to the lively energy of the place. It is a great area to visit when in Varanasi.
Education
The Old City of Varanasi is not just a historical centre. The presence of ancient learning institutions, traditional silk weaving workshops and music schools reflects the city’s connection to Indian art and scholarship. Banaras Hindu University (BHU), though located slightly outside the Old City, is a centre of learning that carries forward Varanasi’s academic traditions. The city has also been home to legendary poets, philosophers and musicians.
Despite its crowded streets and chaotic atmosphere, the Old City has a timeless charm that fascinates visitors. Whether exploring the hidden courtyards, experiencing the spiritual aura of the temples or simply getting lost in its historic alleys. The Old City of Varanasi is an unforgettable experience into the soul of India’s most sacred city.
Highlights in Varanasi
Varanasi is not only famous for its ghats and temples but also for its historical sites and cultural experiences. Visiting this city is a very unique experience in India. Here are a few highlights.
Sarnath
Sarnath is a highlight worth visiting. It is located just a short drive from Varanasi. This ancient Buddhist site is where Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon after achieving enlightenment. Sarnath is home to the Dhamek Stupa. This is a massive structure built by Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BCE. He also built several monasteries and the Ashoka Pillar. This pillar has the famous lion capital, now India’s national emblem. The Sarnath Museum has a remarkable collection of Buddhist artifacts, sculptures and inscriptions that give insight into the region’s past.
Silk weaving workshop
If you are interested in Varanasi’s artistic traditions, a visit to a Banarasi silk weaving workshop is a must. The city is world-famous for its Banarasi sarees. They are woven with detailed gold and silver threads. Many of these workshops are located in the weaver colonies of Madanpura and Lallapura. They allow visitors to witness the craftsmanship behind these luxurious textiles. You can go shopping for Banarasi silk sarees, handcrafted jewellery and brassware in the local markets, such as Vishwanath Gali and Thateri Bazaar.
Indian music
The city is known for the traditions in classical Indian music. The city has been home to legendary musicians like Ravi Shankar and Bismillah Khan. You can attend live Hindustani classical music concerts in small, intimate venues. The Sankat Mochan Music Festival is organised annually at Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple. Some of India’s finest classical artists play here. This temple is dedicated to Lord Hanuman. The temple is a spiritual highlight where devotees gather in large numbers to offer prayers.
Ramnagar Fort
For a quieter escape from the crowded city centre is Ramnagar Fort. This 18th-century sandstone fort is located on the eastern banks of the Ganges. It was once the residence of the Maharaja of Banaras. The Ramnagar Fort Museum displays vintage weapons, antique cars, royal costumes and a collection of old manuscripts and astronomical clocks. The fort has a stunning panoramic view of the Ganges River, especially during sunset.
Bhara Mata Temple
Another must-visit spot is Bharat Mata Temple. It is a unique shrine dedicated not to a deity but to Mother India. Inside is a large marble relief map of undivided India showing the country’s geographical features in detail. The Bhara Mata temple is inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi. He is a symbol of India’s cultural unity and patriotism.
Street food
No visit to Varanasi is complete without experiencing its legendary street food. The city’s local flavours include kachori sabzi, malaiyyo, tamatar chaat and thandai. The last one is a refreshing milk-based drink often mixed with saffron and nuts. Food lovers can explore iconic eateries such as Kashi Chat Bhandar and Blue Lassi Shop. They have been serving delicious treats for generations.
How to get to Varanasi
Getting to Varanasi is easy due to its well-connected air, rail and road networks.
Air
The city is accessible via Varanasi Airport: Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS). They have domestic flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chennai, Bangalore and Hyderabad. There are also international flights to Bangkok and Nepal. The airport is 26 kilometres from Varanasi city centre. As traveller you can reach the city using prepaid taxis like Ola and Uber. Or take a local auto-rickshaw.
Train
If you are travelling by train you should know that Varanasi has two major railway stations: Varanasi Junction (BSB) and Manduadih Railway Station (MUV). Varanasi Junction is one of the busiest railway stations in India. There are trains connecting to Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Mumbai, Kolkata and Chennai. Some of the best trains to Varanasi include the Shiv Ganga Express, Vande Bharat Express and Kashi Vishwanath Express. From the railway station you can take a cycle rickshaw, auto-rickshaw or taxi to reach your destination.
Booking tip: Easily book train tickets in India via 12Go.
Reading tip: How to book train tickets in India as foreigner
By car & bus
Varanasi is also well-connected by road. You can reach the city via National Highway 19 (NH-19) and National Highway 31 (NH-31). There are regular luxury buses, Volvo buses and government-run Uttar Pradesh State Road Transport Corporation (UPSRTC) buses from cities like Lucknow, Allahabad, Patna and Gorakhpur. Many tourists also choose private taxis or self-drive cars for a comfortable road trip.
Booking tip: Easily book bus tickets in India via 12Go.
The best way to explore Varanasi after arrival is by cycle rickshaw, auto-rickshaw or hiring a private cab. The Old City of Varanasi have narrow lanes that are not accessible by car. It’s best to go on foot or use a rickshaws to navigate the area.
Best time to visit Varanasi
Best time to visit: winter season
The best time to visit Varanasi is during the winter season. The season is from October to March. The weather is cool and pleasant and ideal for sightseeing and exploring the famous ghats of Varanasi. During this time, temperatures range between 5°C and 20°C. It will allow you to have a comfortably experience to visit the Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat. Go for a boat ride on the Ganges River and visits to sacred temples like Kashi Vishwanath Temple.
November: Deepawali Festival
One of the best festivals to visit in Varanasi is Dev Deepawali. It is celebrated in November and the ghats are illuminated with thousands of diyas (oil lamps). It creates a breathtaking spectacle. Makar Sankranti in January is another interesting event. During this event devotees take a holy dip in the Ganges River. The Mahashivratri festival in February or March is one of the biggest celebrations in the city. The festival is dedicated to Lord Shiva and comes with a grand processions and temple rituals.
Summer season
The summer season in Varanasi is from April to June. The summer is extremely hot and temperatures are going up to 45°C. The high temperatures are not ideal for sightseeing. If you are visiting during this time you can explore air-conditioned museums, indoor attractions and temples during the cooler parts of the day.
Monsoon season
The monsoon season is from July to September and brings heavy rainfall. The Ganges River swells and can sometimes affect boat rides in Varanasi. But the rain changes the city into a fresh environment. There is less dust and the air is clearer during the monsoon.
But the best experience is between October and March. The weather is most favourable in these months. This period allows tourists to fully enjoy Varanasi’s spiritual, cultural and historical highlights.
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